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    京城烤鸭与涮肉

    京城烤鸭与涮肉


    来源:中国民俗文化网   文章作者:佚名  点击次数:

    京城烤鸭

      烤鸭历史:
      早在南北朝时(420-589)《食珍录》中,已有炙鸭的记载。元代的《饮膳正要》中有了烧鸭的说法。这些皆为今日烤鸭之前身。北京的烤鸭店,一说出现在明朝嘉靖年间(1522~1566),一说出现在清乾隆五十年(1785)。那时经营的是南京(金陵)传来的焖炉烤制法,故称南炉鸭。最早的店址在宣武门外米市胡同,即老便宜坊烤鸭店(该店已于 1937 年倒闭)。现在前门外鲜鱼口便宜坊烤鸭店开业于清咸丰五年(1855)。后来居上,影响很大。全聚德烤鸭店开业于清同治三年(1864),由于经营有方,力求创新,很快名噪京华,并传及海内外。创业者河北蓟县杨全仁,把焖炉改为挂炉,独辟蹊径为博采众长,故极有特色。“文化大革命”时期,全聚德改名为“北京烤鸭店”,便宜坊改名为“新鲁餐厅”。粉碎“四人帮”后,复名。
      烤鸭原料:
      北京填鸭是制作烤鸭的主要原料,据考,北京鸭的祖籍是南方,明初随漕运来北京,繁殖于京东潮白河一带,故叫过“白河蒲鸭”、“白色麻鸭”、“白燕鸭”等名称。后来迁至京西玉泉山放养,逐渐育成今日之良种。用人工填喂法育出的称北京填鸭。
      北京填鸭生长期较短,只需60~65天,就发育成5~7斤重,45天之前的雏鸭自由取食,最后15~20天则由人工填喂,每 6 小时一次,每昼夜填喂 4次。合格之鸭,经宰杀、退毛、取内脏、洗净、灌水、吹鼓、涂料等一系列工序,方可火炉烤制。
      烤制方法:
      焖炉法:烤炉有门,用秫秸先将炉壁及炉内铁箅子烧热,待无明火时,将处理好的鸭子放在铁箅子上,关闭炉门,故称焖炉。
      挂炉法:炉口拱形,无门,将处理好的鸭挂在炉内铁构上,下面用果木(梨、枣木最佳)火烤,不关门。
      叉烧法:与叉烧肉相似,须逐只手工操作,因产量低,费工时,已逐渐淘汰。
      烤熟之鸭需切片上桌。切片技术要求较高,每只鸭要出120片左右,而且须片片带皮带肉,肥瘦相间。佐料用葱段、黄瓜条,调味料有绵白糖(此为宫廷中吃法,今无)、蒜泥(已少用)和甜面酱(目前用此者居多)。主食有荷叶饼或空心烧饼。

    北京涮羊肉

      涮肉历史:据考,在我国的南北朝时期已有火锅了,不过那时的火锅形状和质料并不像现在的铜质炭火锅,涮的肉也不像现在这样单一有鸡、鱼、猪肉等。唐宋时的诗词中,不乏对火锅的吟诵。清代火锅已盛行,据载,嘉庆元年(1796),太上皇乾隆,在清宫设的著名“千叟宴”,主菜就是涮羊肉。此宴用火锅多达1550多个,规模之大可以想见。北京的涮肉据说自北方少数民族传来。正式经营涮羊肉的店家,是开业于咸丰四年(1854)的前门外正阳楼。1914年,河北沧县人丁德山(号子清)开东来顺涮羊肉店。
      涮肉原料:以内蒙古西乌珠穆沁旗之阉割绵羊为最佳。每只羊以40~5O斤重为宜。取其磨裆、大小三岔、黄瓜条、上脑等部位之肉,约13斤左右。每斤肉切出一寸宽、四寸长之片约80片。所用佐料的芝麻酱、酱油、酱豆腐、韭菜花、卤虾油、香菜、葱花等。
      食法较简单,但需注意火候,不可煮时过长,否则嚼不动锅底有海米、口蘑等。同时还佐以粉丝、白菜、冻豆腐、糖蒜等清口之物。


    ·上一篇文章:中国各茶原产地茶品目录
    ·下一篇文章:维吾尔族的食俗


     

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